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Monday, December 3, 2012

Mari Vanna

Photo by ZagatBuzz
Location: 41 East 20th Street, Manhattan
Website: www.marivanna.ru
Price: $$$$

Mari Vanna on Urbanspoon

Located on a nondescript block in the Flatiron District, tucked neatly behind a quaint and unassuming facade, lies Mari Vanna, the New York City installment of this internationally acclaimed staple of Russian cuisine.  Normally situated squarely beyond the reach of our modest wallets, Mari Vanna's $24 Prix Fixe lunch menu and $150 Table for Two dinner selection places it just attainable for certain special occasions.  They feature authentic Russian food, an impressive list of house-infused vodka, and even exotic freshly squeezed juices.  If you're the type of person who believes that you get what you pay for, the food, ambiance, and experience do not disappoint.

Photo by ZagatBuzz
Immediately upon crossing the threshold, the visitor is transported to the enchanting opulence and controlled disrepair of pre-soviet Russia.  Layers of wallpaper and plaster peel back to expose the brick beneath, crystal chandeliers sparkle above perfectly placed tables, and a wood burning stove postures prominently in the restaurant's center to keep it warm during the cold winter months.  Every detail is there, down to the tschotskes on the shelves, but the decor avoids kitsch and all feels quite genuine.  One look and it's hard not to think you've somehow been invited to a Russian grandmother's dinner party... and I mean that in a good way.

During my visit, I opted for the prix fixe lunch menu.  The meal began with an artichoke and avocado salad appetizer.  Now, I have no delusions of being a gourmet food critic, but the combination of flavors in this salad was unlike anything I have ever had.  The spices, citrus, avocado, and artichokes all blended together perfectly, and the dish was so large I was left with no choice but to share with my lunch companions to save space for the next course.

For the main course I deferred to the waitress for a recommendation.  She directed me toward the chicken stroganoff served the traditional way, with buckwheat kasha.  The cream sauce was well-seasoned and not too heavy, and the buckwheat kasha made an excellent base to ground the stroganoff and provide some texture.  It was warm, comforting, and so filling that I was unable to finish it all.

So if you're interested in an authentic a Russian dining experience within the confines of Manhattan, or you're looking for a romantic restaurant for a special night out, Mari Vanna may be just the place for you.  It's not the cheapest place in town, but for the quality of the food and the uniqueness of the dining experience Mari Vanna is a great value.

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